Norway Maple

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Norway Maple

Postby Kevin Downing » Fri Jan 08, 2010 11:33 pm

I have just been given a piece of Notofagus (Norway Maple?) about 7 or 8 inch diameter, 3 feet long, and wonder what it would be like for a bowl. Has anyone used it? I'd be using a pole lathe not a powered lathe. The whole tree came down some months ago and was only cut up in September. And it would be my first ever solo bowl. So maybe I'd "practise" with a piece of holly I have instead and then save the maple for a later date.
Regards,
Kevin
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Re: Norway Maple

Postby Robin Fawcett » Sat Jan 09, 2010 2:34 pm

Nothofagus species come from S.America, Australia, New Zealand and New Guinea and are otherwise known as Southern Beeches so would probably be good bowl turning wood. Let us know how you get on with it Kevin - after the practice.
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Re: Norway Maple

Postby Donald Todd » Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:50 pm

I have tried Rauli: Nothfagus nervosa (formerly procera) It was from a small plantation in a local Estate. The trees were very straight with a light heartwood, but this species is very soft. I don't know how strong it is.
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Re: Norway Maple

Postby Kevin Downing » Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:56 pm

Thanks Robin and Donald for all the information.

I got this lump of wood in the dark on Friday night as a gift. The gardener from the Estate who cut up the fallen tree sent it to me via my father. He said it was Nothofagus or Norway Maple. I know the area was planted with some Southern Hemisphere shrubs and trees and some of the gardens are knows as New Zealand Garden, Magnolia Garden, Camellia Garden, Tree Fern Walk etc so I assumed the Nothofagus was from New Zealand. I have not spoken to my father again about it but I did a google search and came up with a species from New Zealand, Nothofagus Menziesii, that is described as looking like Maple, "The color of silver beech wood has been compared to hard maple" This may be where Norway Maple came from in my first post. The website is below:

http://www.allbusiness.com/agriculture- ... 349-1.html

There may have been a name plate with the tree which may have been destroyed when the tree fell. The piece I have looks like it has a slight longitudinal swirl. It is pinkish in colour and from my first view it has reasonable close grain in the centre getting larger to the outside though I was looking in the dark and not paying too much attention knowing I would not work it straight away. I will not be back in Kerry till the weekend to see the piece again. And it could be a few weekends more before I try it on a lathe. I'll try to post a photo this weekend.

Regards,

Kevin
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Re: Norway Maple

Postby Kevin Downing » Mon Feb 01, 2010 9:08 am

Photos as promised.
Yes indeed, the gardener said it was Southern Beech. Communication error or forgetfulness somewhere along the line. Now, can I retitle this message as Nothofagus to help anyone using the search facility in the future? Is this allowed? Encouraged?

Meanwhile I got some Ash so bowl turning has to wait. What is the best way to store this piece in the interim? Out of the sun and wind and off the ground? Do I have to seal the ends? What about on a concrete floor in a concrete walled shed that has no windows and just a door at one end?
Regards,
Kevin
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Re: Norway Maple

Postby gavin » Mon Feb 01, 2010 9:27 pm

Kevin Downing wrote: What is the best way to store this piece in the interim? Out of the sun and wind and off the ground? Do I have to seal the ends?

You want to stop the ends drying quicker than the rest, else you'll have cracks at the end. To stop this, you can paint the ends with any impermeable liquid, or wrap the ends with plastic bags. Plastic bags look naff, are fragile and awkward to secure, but would be better than nowt.

I use PVA, esp cos the brush cleans easily in water.

I would put the log up on little sticks - or a wooden pallet - to prevent moisture wicking up into the log from the ground and causing spalting in that area.
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Re: Norway Maple

Postby Kevin Downing » Tue Feb 02, 2010 2:35 pm

Thanks Gavin, I'll seal the ends.
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