stool making & assembly part 2 - pic heavy

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stool making & assembly part 2 - pic heavy

Postby gavin » Tue Jan 08, 2013 6:00 pm

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A ring template can be handy to check your diameter
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I offer the rung to the Veritas tenon cutter mounted on a bracket of mild steel
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If I have not 24 hours or more to let the tenons dry, I reach for technology.
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Attachments
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If I microwave more than 1 minute, I can sometimes get scorch marks - or the work catch fire. So I keep it under 60 seconds and let the work cool somewhat before another 60 second burst.
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Re: stool making & assembly part 2 - pic heavy

Postby Donald Todd » Fri Jan 11, 2013 1:23 pm

Gavin, if you mount the plastic ring template in a piece of plywood or other board it will hold it to a true circle.
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Re: stool making & assembly part 2 - pic heavy

Postby gavin » Fri Jan 11, 2013 2:36 pm

Donald Todd wrote:Gavin, if you mount the plastic ring template in a piece of plywood or other board it will hold it to a true circle.

I should try that.
Once they go elliptical, can you make them round again?
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Re: stool making & assembly part 2 - pic heavy

Postby Donald Todd » Sat Jan 12, 2013 11:06 am

I am assuming they are PVC. As long as you have drilled a hole to the right diameter you should be able to force the ring in, truing it up in the process.
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Re: stool making & assembly part 2 - pic heavy

Postby Donald Todd » Mon Jan 14, 2013 6:38 pm

Rather than microwaving the rungs you might be better to use a fan oven set low, say 50ºC. Not everyone may have a microwave big enough to take the rungs. The front ones on a full sized chair will be 18"+.
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Re: stool making & assembly part 2 - pic heavy

Postby ToneWood » Mon Jan 14, 2013 8:32 pm

Interesting to see the tenon-cutter in action - like a big, precision pencil-sharpener. Thought they might be for power drills only, so good to see it used with a hand drill.
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Re: stool making & assembly part 2 - pic heavy

Postby gavin » Mon Jan 14, 2013 10:25 pm

ToneWood wrote:Interesting to see the tenon-cutter in action - like a big, precision pencil-sharpener. Thought they might be for power drills only, so good to see it used with a hand drill.

It's glorious! You know that polelathe-delight of seeing the swarf peel off in correlation to how hard you push with your leg ? And how you can adjust the amount of leg-push and get different performance, and you know you are in absolute control of the whole operation?

Now, whilst it's not quite as lovely as that with the tenon cutter, you do notice the correlation. And you never have to worry about charging batteries, or connecting to mains. And it's silent. And dead safe.

I'd be most interested to hear from Mike Abbott his opinion about using such a horizontally-mounted, hand-powered drill. For the hand-powered drill saves buying loads of drills and keeping of batteries charged. It may be I have invented a new device ( unlikely, but possible) or Mike has seen a downside of such device that I have missed.

BTW: I do check the alignment of the rung once in the tenon-cutter before I start turning with a spririt level and a carpenters square. Even before I used the spririt level, the tenons were straight enough.

This ain't rocket science!
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Re: stool making & assembly part 2 - pic heavy

Postby Donald Todd » Tue Jan 15, 2013 2:09 pm

Jack Hill illustrates clamping the billet and hand turning the cutter to form tenons. He has used a very geared down motor to rotate the billet and hand held the cutter to "turn" the entire length. Such mechanisation is the start of industrialising the process. Has anyone got a plan for making their own tenon cutter?

I just had a go making a "big pencil sharpener": took about a hour. Roughly clamped together it gives me a tenon (at bottom) of 12.7mm diameter, which is pretty good for a first try at 1/2" target (size of auger used). rest of the clobber are the tools used. The skew chisel is necessary to cut the compound angle for the (straight) blade.
Tenon Cutter and Tools.jpg
Finished tenon at bottom
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Blade.jpg
Blade at tangent to conical cut.
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Re: stool making & assembly part 2 - pic heavy

Postby 81stBRAT » Tue Jan 15, 2013 9:05 pm

Hi Donald
Well done you have got the idea.
Look in Tools /Rounders/rotary planes / Rake Maker/ Dowel plate / have post on making such items
I found bevel down on 1/2" and Dias above gave a better finish.
Have it in mind to make a tenon cutter one day.
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Re: stool making & assembly part 2 - pic heavy

Postby Donald Todd » Wed Jan 16, 2013 9:56 am

I think, looking at the Veritas dowel cutters in the Axminster catalogue, that you need a curve on the blade at the point where the wood leaves it; at the entry to the hole of the final diameter. My makeshift rig has a sharp corner, as it is an unmodified blade borrowed from a small plane. This gives a very rough finish. Also, as with turning, getting the downside of the blade tangential to the wood, is the key to a clean cut.

This is generally what I did, using hand tools.
Here is our previous discussion.
I think the secret to setting up is using a metal dowel of the correct size. This is part of the Veritas kit.

Gavin, you might want to consider making this sort of "Big Pencil Sharpener" in place of the tenon cutter on a drill. It's something kids could relate to a bit more. Possibly make one for your "Vampire Stakes".
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Re: stool making & assembly part 2 - pic heavy

Postby tagnut69 » Tue May 28, 2013 10:43 am

I like the look of that tapered reamer type thingy you have there, any idea if you can still get them?

Cheers

Chris
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Re: stool making & assembly part 2 - pic heavy

Postby ToneWood » Tue May 28, 2013 9:00 pm

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Re: stool making & assembly part 2 - pic heavy

Postby tagnut69 » Tue May 28, 2013 10:22 pm

No it is the tapered reamer in the top picture from Donald Todd showing his home made rounder. It looks like a very large countersink bit for a brace
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Re: stool making & assembly part 2 - pic heavy

Postby simon » Wed May 29, 2013 8:55 pm

Make it, mend it, wear it out,
Make it do or do without.
FB Simon Lamb Green woodwork
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